Bangkok

Our final destination of the Thailand trip was Bangkok. Even though I was only in the city for a day and a half (due to my flight being a bit earlier than everyone else), I think that it was my favorite place that we visited. It is one of the coolest cities I’ve ever had the privilege to visit. I left feeling like I had only seen a glimpse of the massive city, and before my plane had even lifted off the runway, I was dreaming about the next time I would be able to come back.

Bangkok is so incredibly full of life. Unlike the smaller-populated Chiang Mai, Bangkok is densely metropolitan; in other words, it has that feeling of controlled chaos that many large cities have. After factoring in a different and distinct culture to this familiar city feeling, my American perspective read it as a whole different world – barely restrained chaos, verging on absolutely unrestrained. Cars and busses zoom by pedestrians at all hours, weaving in and out while tuk tuks and motorcycle-taxis orbit dangerously around the other vehicles, slipping in nearly impossible spaces to beat out their larger counterparts. And the traffic rules? Well, they technically exist, but there were a few times when I was sure they couldn’t due to the blatant disregard for one-way roads that my tuk tuk drivers had.

There were also river taxis, which were quite convenient for travel to many of the touristy sites in the city which sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya. These were especially fun and fascinating at night – when the sun was setting, all the high-rises on the shore were lighting up, their yellow and blue lights lighting up the dark river.

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During my day in Bangkok, we went to see the Royal Palace and respective temple grounds. Although we had seen many temple grounds on our trip, these were especially grand. There were so many visitors – foreigners and Thais alike – milling about the architecture, taking pictures of the beautiful gilded and gem-set temple exteriors. Everything is so detailed and worthy of awe – thinking about the process to create the magnificent structures is mind-blowing.

One of the main attractions of the grounds is a certain temple called Wat Phra Kaew, which houses the famous Emerald Buddha. This statue is very important in Thailand and in Buddhism. The account of its discovery was recorded almost 600 years ago, and it has been moved around the country to different locations ever since. However, since 1784, it has been in the very same temple grounds that we visited. It is jaw-droppingly exquisite inside the temple. There is an air of respect and a sacred stillness as people file in and out, voices dropping as they encounter the quiet and peaceful air. No pictures are allowed, and foreign tourists can only enter up to a certain part of the chapel interior. The front part of the space is reserved for Thai people only – many who make long pilgrimages to witness the Emerald Buddha in person and worship their god with prayers, presence, and incense.

The food in Bangkok was another one of my favorite parts. There was so much to try and it was so cheap! Unlike Chiang Mai, there was more of an international  influence on Bangkok’s food courts and markets. There were dishes from many different countries in Asia and a huge selection to choose from – Chinese food, halal food, Japanese food, and American food are some specific examples that I can recall. The food scene in Bangkok felt like a melting pot of food culture. Even as you walked down the busy street, just navigating to get to a tourist location to which you were headed, food lined your path from individual stalls offering pad thai, fried insects, Thai tea, pre-cut fruit, smoothies, and so much more. You can imagine the constant temptation – even if I wasn’t hungry, I was thinking about buying yet another mango sticky rice to-go (my weakness for sugar met its match with mango sticky rice, which is pretty much the most delicious dessert ever).

And even though I felt as though I had just arrived to Bangkok, my time came to an end. Although it was a full day of sightseeing and other lovely touristy events, I felt like there was still so much to see. I remember a moment when Dani and I were zooming through the city in the back of a tuk tuk for about 30-40 minutes, on our way to a market. We raced through the city, in between the perpetual traffic, enjoying the quick flashes of stores and markets and people and neighborhood shrines. I remember thinking – this is a city of undiscovered cultural treasure and experiences that I cannot even imagine. I feel so lucky to have seen it for just a day. The next time I am able to return, whenever that is, I know that the beauty and energy of Bangkok will be waiting for me. There’s so much more to discover!

And with that, the sun set on my time in Thailand and I made my way back to Spain. I was received well – very jet-lagged, but mentally refreshed and excited to see my friends and my beautiful city. I’m so happy to be back! And now it’s 2019. Who knows what exciting and beautiful things this year holds for my life, and for all of us?

Stay open, stay curious, and stay inspired!

Thanks for reading, and if you’ve kept up with the whole series, an extra thanks to you! If you want to connect with me to discuss your own Thailand travels/questions/inspiring stories – I’d love to chat. Find me over at my contact page or tweet me.

THIS IS PART 3 OF A 3 PART SERIES. CLICK HERE TO READ PART 1, AND HERE TO READ PART 2.

Koh Phi Phi

After a handful of relaxing days in beautiful Chiang Mai, we woke up in the wee hours of the morning and headed to the airport. We caught a plane to Phuket, and once in Phuket, caught a ferry off the coast to take us to our actual destination: Phi Phi Island.

I don’t remember much of the ferry ride (as I am prone to seasickness and had taken a dose of Dramamine, so I was absolutely dead to the world) but when we arrived, I woke up and took in the view. It was a literal paradise. White sand, bright sunshine, lush greenery, bright tropical flowers, clear, aquamarine water… I honestly couldn’t believe my eyes. We disembarked, grabbed our luggage, and were shuttled quickly to a smaller longboat which carried us through the blue water to the resort.

Then, it was beach time. And for the next week, I spent more time on the beach than I probably ever have in my life. Dani and I would wake up, eat breakfast, grab a cocktail, then go lay out, sleep, and relax under the bright Thai sun. I’ve never had a vacation quite like that, to that level of relaxation. I didn’t fight it, though – it was nice to have time to do absolutely nothing on the agenda except to play catch up on some good podcasts and Netflix, all while working on my tan. I felt re-energized by the sun and the time I was given to spend with myself and my thoughts.

I thought a lot about the year ahead – 2019. I thought a lot about practical things – jobs, applications, income, visas, etc. I also reflected about personal practices and growth that I wanted to continue to work on in the next year – resolutions, goals (physical, emotional, spiritual, and social), crazy ideas, self-care routines, etc. In essence, I had the time to brainstorm about almost everything under the sun that I had been unable to before due to the hustle of life. I am grateful for the time I had to be able to map out and think through upcoming decisions. (Currently, I am working on transferring these ideas to the tangible world – putting them on paper, into a semi-orderly list. I would encourage you to do this – it really makes your ideas and visions real and accessible).

During the late afternoons, the sun would begin to set and we would go get ready for dinner. I remember one night, the tide had receded so far back, and there was this whole other beach that was exposed – rocks, barnacles, and all. We went down to the shore and walked so far out, where the sand had formed deep grooves by the ocean’s current and where the little crabs scuttled around our bare feet into their barnacle hideouts. The sunsets are incredible on Phi Phi. The sun falls right over a mountain peak on the far side of the island, and the orange, pink, and golden colors bathe the entire archipelago, creating a final, glorious crescendo of light as the island nightlife begins.

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Sunset explorations on Koh Phi Phi.
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The view from our cabana.

One of the restaurants in town featured a live music show, which consisted of two guys – one on the guitar and one singing. They were absolutely incredible! The singer had the voice of an angel, and I would compare him to Bruno Mars (maybe even better…)? They would take requests and absolutely astonished us because they knew, like, every single song ever written. Dani and I would often return by ourselves after dinner (otherwise known as my nightly tom kha session) with the rest of the family to get a drink and listen. It got to the point where the duet recognized and acknowledged us when we walked in – we were pretty much their biggest, most unapologetic supporters.

When Christmas Eve came, it seemed unreal. Maybe it was because I was on an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, wearing a bikini, dress, and no shoes every day. Maybe it was because I was out of my normal Christmas routine of being with my family back home, and missing them. I kept forgetting that it was December – whenever I would see a reminder of Christmas, it was like I was remembering it for the first time.

The resort hosted a Christmas banquet on the beach that night, complete with food, drinks, and raffles. There were performances of traditional Thai dance, modern Thai dance, and fire spinning/juggling. It was the most unique Christmas Eve experience I have ever had, and one I won’t forget for the rest of my life. The whole night, the emcees had been saying that Santa was on his way to the island and would show up at the end of the banquet. We didn’t know what to expect, but it definitely wasn’t a Thai man sailing through the darkness on a longboat, dressed as Santa and bearing gifts.

We left as the island the day after Christmas as we had arrived – long boat to ferry, ferry to Phuket, and then to the airport to catch our flight to Bangkok.

In wrapping up my island experience, I think I am most thankful for these two things: 1) like I said already, being able to completely relax my mind and body in an idyllic setting such as Phi Phi Island and 2) being able to be with a family for Christmas. I am grateful to have been able to share laughter, adventure, and delicious food surrounded by Dani and her family. Although I missed my family and our holiday traditions, I was able to partake in their family’s traditions and not just feel like a part of it, but be a part of it for real. I would have survived in Madrid, sure, having Christmas Day to myself and maybe a couple of friends, but spending the holiday week with a welcoming group of new friends really made my Christmas unforgettable. 

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The typical Phi Phi outfit – backpack, sunglasses, swimsuit/dress, and no shoes.

Thanks for reading! If you have any thoughts, questions, or a Thailand experience of your own, please share – I’d love to hear. You can find me over at my contact page or tweet me.

THIS IS PART 2 OF A 3 PART SERIES. CLICK HERE TO READ PART 1, AND HERE TO READ PART 3.

Chiang Mai

A month or two before the Christmas holiday, an opportunity to travel to Thailand with my friend Dani and her family opened up to me. At first, I wasn’t sure that I would be able to go. I was hesitant, but after having several encouraging conversations with friends (encouragement such as: “Haley, if you don’t go, you might regret it for the rest of your life!”) and budgeting out a financial plan several times, I ended up buying my tickets in a Starbucks at the beginning of December. 8 days later, I was in Thailand. I wanted to blog about my experience here as I’ve just returned with everything fresh in my mind, because otherwise I would inevitably forget details that I would like to remember. (Note: The trip consisted of three parts over a span of two weeks, so I will be writing three separate posts to give each their space and time).

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The first city we stayed in, Chiang Mai, sits in the northern part of the country. My first impression of Thailand was the people – they call it the Land of Smiles, and that is so true! Most of the people I interacted with were so cheerful and always greeted us with a smile. My friend’s dad was born in Thailand, so he speaks fluent Thai. One of the greatest things on the trip was whenever he would order his food in Thai, because the waiter would usually freak out – “how can you speak such good Thai?!” To help us non-Thais out, he taught us some phrases that we could use, such as “hello”, “thank you”, “where is the bathroom”, “how much does this cost”, etc. I loved being able to communicate with the people I met in this little but meaningful way, even though most of the time I absolutely slaughtered the pronunciation. I think I need to work on tonal inflection for my next trip.

The food in Chiang Mai gave us our first taste of Thai cuisine. Although there are a lot of touristy places, such as international restaurants and Asian-fusion restaurants in the city, there are also some more authentic sites with classic dishes like pad thai, tom kha, tom yum, chicken satay, green curry, and a ton more. My favorite thing that I ate (and continued to devour throughout the whole trip) was tom kha… there wasn’t one bowl that was bad. I’ve decided that I am going to attempt to make it myself in the upcoming months. Sitting in the open-air restaurants, feeling the Thai humidity, I kept thinking – how much better of an experience would this soup be if I ate it on a frigid day in the city? Well, it might not be a better experience at all if my attempt fails in deliciousness, but there’s only one way to find out. If someone has a good recipe, please share it with me!

One night, we went to a traditional Thai dinner and show. The food was pretty much the same as I described above, with the exception of fancy cocktails and fried pig ears (which were surprisingly delicious). The show aspect was great – there were a few presentations of beautiful, traditional Thai dances, a Thai boxing match (obviously super staged, but nonetheless entertaining), and live music. The final part of the show featured a bit of crowd participation. Dani and I were off to the side, sipping on a mai tai and enjoying the spectacular, when we were approached by two of the dancers to join in. After brief hesitation, we shrugged and went to the floor – “why not?” I’m not sure how successful I was at the dance, but I remember laughing most of the time because it was so much fun. In summary, I have fond feelings about my introduction to Thai dance, even though I probably looked ridiculous.

On the final full day in Chiang Mai, we went to the highest point in the city, with is a mountain called Doi Suthep. On top of the mountain is a huge Buddhist temple. The temple is a sacred spot in the area, but many tourists also visit to see the beautiful art and architecture as well as the incredible view of the whole city from the summit. It was wild seeing the city from above – it honestly had felt much smaller to me than it actually is. I think it’s because of the streets and clustered buildings – it’s not a vertically dense city, but more widespread across the intersecting streets, with little shops and restaurants crowding the blocks and corners. I did not go into the temple itself, mainly because I couldn’t tear myself away from the incredible rosy sunset view, but was able to see a lot of the temple grounds. A few of us explored the temple grounds and admired the rising moon as it perched itself above the temple. The grounds are decorated with flowers of many colors, bright paper lanterns, religious art, various lookout points, and Buddha statues. There were some monks in their orange robes, which is a fairly common sight in Thailand, but seeing them walking around the temple grounds, solemn, tranquil, content, and in their element, was a really special thing to me. One monk that I saw had a dog calmly flanking his heels as he glided around the grounds, checking to make sure all was in order. I found it extremely fascinating.

I’ll share one final anecdote about Chiang Mai. Before Doi Suthep, we went to an orphanage/daycare about 30 minutes outside of the city. Dani’s family has mutual friends with the director of the orphanage, which is called House of Love – the overarching organization is called Hope for Hilltribes. We were able to go visit the kids in the daycare and introduce ourselves, and then they each introduced themselves to us – then sang us a few songs and danced for us. It was so special to be able to see their sweet smiles and watch them perform, and to see the joy that they got from singing and dancing for us, their new friends. After, we toured the orphanage and sat down with the director, a kind American woman who had been living in Thailand for 34 years working in the orphanage. She told us all about her experience, the joys and sorrows that she has seen in her three decades in Thailand, and more about how the non-profit works. It was very interesting to hear the story of House of Love and how she got involved and ended up staying so long. I left feeling very inspired from her life story of altruism, the work she and the organization have done in northern Thailand, and the visit with the kids. Hope for Hilltribes has really made a difference in so many lives and their work is needed and important. If you’re interested, I would encourage you to read more on the website I’ve linked above.

I was totally in my head on the ride back to Chiang Mai, asking myself questions like: how can I make a difference in the world like this woman has? How can I use my life to change others? It’s an essential question that I think about often, but after experiences like this, I am always filled with inspiration and motivation to think about ways that I can better the world around me. It’s an alignment of my head and my heart that is one of my favorite feelings – like I’m falling upwards, progressing more into the person I want to be. It’s an alignment that I want to seek more often. Encountering places like House of Love and seeing absolute selflessness and quiet service in action amidst sadness and devastation is like finding a space for the divine in the midst of an absolutely confusing and hectic world. I hope that you have found spaces of inspiration like this in your life, and that you can think of thin places like this for yourself, dear reader.

Thank you for reading my blog! If you have any thoughts, questions, or a Thailand experience of your own, I’d love to hear. Share over at my contact page or tweet me.

THIS IS PART 1 OF A 3 PART SERIES. CLICK HERE TO READ PART 2, AND HERE TO READ PART 3.

A Breath of Fresh Air

I love living in a big city like Madrid.

The busy, loud atmosphere is one that I thoroughly enjoy – there is always something to do or see. I love walking through the streets in order to go places, feeling the heartbeat of the city as I walk (not having to drive everywhere is so LIBERATING). I also love navigating public transportation, which maybe is a little strange – but in my mind it’s kind of like a puzzle. (Note: one of the things I look forward to each day is jamming to pre-selected tunes on the metro during my morning commute. If you have any music recommendations, let me know)!

Despite all these wonderful things, I miss the great outdoors – with things like clean, fresh air, wide open spaces, mountains, and scenic views. I don’t prefer one over the other – city to countryside – because in my mind, they both have their own distinct appeal. But after living in a mountainous region for the past four years and taking great advantage of opportunities there, the arrival of crisp fall weather in Madrid brought a certain wistfulness for the Ozarks. I decided to address this with an adventure into the Spanish countryside.

Through the advice of a friend and the help of Facebook, I signed up for a group hiking trip. I wasn’t sure what to expect – but Saturday morning, I woke up early, put on several layers, and made my way to the bus terminal to meet the group. There was a forecast for potential rain, so I sent up a prayer against bad weather to the universe as I made my way uptown.

After meeting everyone at the terminal, we embarked for Bustarviejo, which is about an hour and a half bus trip outside Madrid. This is where we would begin our trek. The trip went by delightfully quick due to great conversation, and before I knew it we were in the little mountain town. We then headed down one of the cobblestone roads to a little cafetería to grab some coffee and do official introductions before we started our route. Afterwards, we zipped our backpacks up and set out into la Sierra Norte de Madrid.

At the beginning of the trip, one of my new friends remarked, “the air out here smells SO good!” And it was true – the fresh air did wonders for all of us who live in the city. It was clean and thin, and the sun was thankfully bright in the sky for the majority of the hike (and no rain)! The mountain air was chilly and windy, but not unbearable. Craggy rocks flanked the gravel trail as we ascended, and as we got higher and higher, the view got better and better. I felt lighter inside – from the pure air, the rural beauty, and new friends to share and experience it all with. It was an ideal situation. My soul were refreshed as we trekked through the morning and afternoon, chatting and joking and laughing and snacking (on PB&J, jamón chips, bananas, and yes, three kinds of chocolate) the whole way.

We descended down through a forest, with tall pine trees and a mossy, rocky path. The air was damp and thick and we all had to shed at least a layer (if not two). Yellow plants bloomed among the fallen orange pine needles, creating a beautiful carpet of fall colors. Eventually, we ended up at a highway, which we followed to a bit to a roadside bar. We shared a round of drinks, took a group picture, and then found our way to the nearest bus stop. The bus ride home was quieter because of everyone’s mutual exhaustion, but I was able to reflect and be grateful for the time I was able to spend in the countryside and the people with whom I was able to connect.

Coming back to the busy city after the adventure in Bustarviejo gave me a deeper appreciation for where I live. When I returned, I felt energized by the electric hum of the metro as I made my way back downtown, riding the line in communion with strangers whose lives are as complex as my own. I texted my new friends from the hike, conversing about future hikes or activities in the city that we could do together in the near future. I called a friend from home and had a wonderful conversation about life on a park bench in the middle of a busy street.

And maybe this is one of the things I am trying to convey with my account of this experience: that beauty can be found everywhere, but different perspectives are often necessary to bring unrealized beauty to our attention. I want to appreciate each individual experience and situation in my life, but sometimes getting in a comfortable routine can blind me from everyday things that have the possibility to inspire and encourage. Sometimes, I think it is necessary to retreat for a bit and clear our minds (whatever that looks like for each individual), to make new connections with people with different lives than us, and take a breath of fresh air that isn’t what we’re used to. Because when we return to our daily lives, the things we love most about where we are will be even more present in our hearts.

If you have any thoughts or a story from your own life about this topic, I’d love to hear about it! You can share with me over on my contact page, or feel free to tweet me.